blue artichoke

So here it is two days before Thanksgiving and I still have three cheesecake recipes to try. Because it is difficult, nay, impossible, to make a cheesecake while riding in a car, the three remaining cheesecakes will be tested post-Thanksgiving. Here are three reasons why this is for the best:
1) Two of the three remaining cheesecakes are not traditional pumpkin cheesecakes, so if given the chance will try to corrupt the more traditional ones. Thanksgiving is not a celebration of radicalism.
2) I might throw up if I have to eat another pumpkin cheesecake right now.
3) Thanksgiving dinner is the best meal of the year. It should last as long as possible. Post-Thanksgiving cheesecakes help the holiday linger.

So, here is the recipe for the reigning champ:

Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake with Bourbon Variation
Cook’s Illustrated 11/2003

Depending on the oven and the temperature of the ingredients, the cheesecake may bake about 15 minutes faster or slower than the instructions indicate; it is therefore best to check the cake 1 1/4 hours into baking. Although the cheesecake can be made up to three days in advance, the crust will begin to lose its crispness after only one day. To make slicing the cheesecake easy and neat, use a knife with a narrow blade, such as a carving knife; between cuts, dip the blade into a pitcher of hot water and wipe it clean with paper towels. The cheesecake is good on its own, but the Brown Sugar and Bourbon Cream (recipe follows) is a grand addition. And how!

Makes one 9-inch cake, serving 12 to 16
Crust
5 ounces graham crackers (9 whole crackers), broken into large pieces
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Filling
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar (10 1/3 ounces)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese , cut into 1-inch chunks and left to soften at room temperature, about 30 minutes
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon lemon juice from 1 lemon
5 large eggs , left at room temperature, about 30 minutes
1 cup heavy cream

1. For The Crust: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Spray bottom and sides of 9-inch springform pan evenly with nonstick cooking spray. Pulse crackers, sugar, and spices in food processor until evenly and finely ground, about fifteen 2-second pulses. Transfer crumbs to medium bowl, drizzle melted butter over, and mix with rubber spatula until evenly moistened. Turn crumbs into prepared springform pan and, using hand, spread crumbs into even layer. Using flat-bottomed ramekin or drinking glass, press crumbs evenly into pan bottom, then use a soup spoon to press and smooth crumbs into edges of pan. Bake until fragrant and browned about the edges, about 15 minutes. Cool on wire rack while making filling.

2. For The Filling: Bring about 4 quarts water to simmer in stockpot. Whisk sugar, spices, and salt in small bowl; set aside. To dry pumpkin (see illustrations below): Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Spread pumpkin on paper towels in roughly even layer. Cover pumpkin with second triple layer of paper towels and press firmly until paper towels are saturated. Peel back top layer of towels and discard. Grasp bottom towels and fold pumpkin in half; peel back towels. Repeat and flip pumpkin onto baking sheet; discard towel.

3. In standing mixer fitted with flat beater, beat cream cheese at medium speed to break up and soften slightly, about 1 minute. Scrape beater and bottom and sides of bowl well with rubber spatula. Add about one third of sugar mixture and beat at medium-low speed until combined, about 1 minute; scrape bowl and add remaining sugar in two additions, scraping bowl after each addition. Add pumpkin, vanilla, and lemon juice and beat at medium speed until combined, about 45 seconds; scrape bowl. Add 3 eggs and beat at medium-low until incorporated, about 1 minute; scrape bowl. Add remaining 2 eggs and beat at medium-low until incorporated, about 45 seconds; scrape bowl. Add heavy cream and beat at low speed until combined, about 45 seconds. Using rubber spatula, scrape bottom and sides of bowl and give final stir by hand.

4. Set springform pan with cooled crust on 18-inch-square doubled layer heavy-duty foil and wrap bottom and sides with foil; set wrapped springform pan in roasting pan. Pour filling into springform pan and smooth surface; set roasting pan in oven and pour enough boiling water to come about halfway up side of springform pan. Bake until center of cake is slightly wobbly when pan is shaken, and center of cake registers 145 to 150 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 1 1/2 hours (see note). Set roasting pan on wire rack and use paring knife to loosen cake from sides of pan. Cool until water is just warm, about 45 minutes. Remove springform pan from water bath, discard foil, and set on wire rack; continue to cool until barely warm, about 3 hours. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

5. To Serve: Slide thin metal spatula between crust and pan bottom to loosen, then slide cake onto serving platter. Let cheesecake stand at room temperature about 30 minutes, then cut into wedges and serve.

Variation: Use graham-pecan crust (3 oz. graham and 2 oz. ground pecans) and substitute ¼ c. bourbon for the lemon juice in the filling to make a Pumpkin-Bourbon Cheesecake with Graham-Pecan Crust.

Step By Step: Drying Pumpkin with Paper Towels
1. Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Spread pumpkin on paper towels in roughly even layer.
2. Cover pumpkin with second triple layer of paper towels and press firmly until paper towels are saturated.
3. Peel back top layer of towels and discard.
4. Grasp bottom towels and fold pumpkin in half; peel back towels. Repeat and flip pumpkin onto baking sheet; discard towels.

Brown Sugar and Bourbon Cream
Makes about 3 cups

1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon table salt
2 teaspoons bourbon

1. In bowl of standing mixer, whisk heavy cream, sour cream, brown sugar, and salt until combined. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve cheesecake, at least 4 hours or up to 24, stirring once or twice during chilling to ensure that sugar dissolves.

2. When ready to serve cheesecake, add bourbon and beat mixture with whisk attachment at medium speed until small bubbles form around edges, about 40 seconds; increase speed to high and continue to beat until fluffy and doubled in volume, about 1 minute longer. Spoon cream on individual slices of pumpkin cheesecake.

I made the regular version (graham crust and lemon juice in filling) and topped it with the brown sugar and bourbon cream. It uses a ridiculous number of bowls and pans and I'm not convinced that it is absolutely necessary to dry the pumpkin, but this recipe makes a mighty fine cheesecake. Best so far.

If anyone tries this one for Thanksgiving, I want feedback!

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 03:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Pumpkin cheesecake recipe #6, deliciously and efficiently entitled "Pumpkin Cheesecake," is a low-fat masterpiece. It uses reduced-fat vanilla wafers for the crust, three blocks of fat-free cream cheese and two blocks of 1/3-less-fat cream cheese. For a low-fat cheesecake, it isn't bad. I wouldn't spit it out of my mouth or anything, but I probably wouldn't go back for seconds. It wasn't as creamy as the other cheesecakes, on account of the reduced fat content. It also seems to have formed a bit of a thick skin/crust on the top and sides. This could be from the lack of fat or from the lack of a water bath. Either way, the result is less than desirable. The flavor is adequate, but perhaps a boost in the spices would make it a little less bland. The recipe (from Cooking Light, by the way) does not include a topping. I'm fairly adamant about toppings for cheesecakes, so in keeping with the low-fat theme, I made a maple whipped cream topping using no-sugar-added maple syrup. Gentleman Caller called it "the Missouri of cheesecakes. It's OK, but there are options that would be a bit less bland."

So, for those pious healthy eaters, this cheesecake is for you. It is thoroughly sufficient. But a bon vivant wouldn't be satisfied with such a dearth of fat and flavor.

In other news, I superglued my fingers together yesterday. Accidentally, this time. I was trying to make a necklace.

Dinner tonight: Cider-roasted chicken; autumn apple, grape and cheddar salad with pecans; green beans of some sort

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 03:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I made another pumpkin cheesecake! I still have three more to go before Wednesday. Don't think I'll make it. I have only one springform pan, which slows down the process a bit. This cheesecake has a vanilla wafer crust and I used my new Cuisinart food processor to crumb the cookies. It was so easy! I could do it all in one batch, and the crumbs were uniform in size. Oh, happy day. How have I existed so long without this food processor? Seriously, I love it. I might even write a haiku.

The cheesecake must set overnight. Tasting notes mañana.

Dinner tonight: veggie burger, gnocchi in Parmesan-mushroom sauce, leftover butternut squash salad.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 07:39 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

When people ask me about my blog, I sometimes lie and tell them that it is a list of all I eat in a day. I consider that a joke, because who would be interested in reading a list of what I eat? Well, as it turns out, some people are. Several people have asked me what I cook for dinner. A few people have asked the same of Gentleman Caller. Neither of us has been able to answer the question. I'm a little frightened by my lack of short-term memory. I plan a meal, pick out recipes, shop for ingredients, prepare the meal, eat the meal and promptly forget what I ate. Most meals are good, but only some are memorable. So, in an effort to remember what I eat and to satisfy the curiosity of those who are interested, I'll start including a dinner menu in my posts. Last night it was Tomato, Onion and Goat Cheese Tart with leftover Chicken Parmesan. Tonight it is Spinach, Goat Cheese and Roasted Tomato Salad with Maple-Balsamic Vinaigrette with fake chicken and leftover tart. A very goat-cheesy night.

And now, as promised, feedback on the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake with Caramel-Bourbon Sauce:
The recipe is from the November 2005 issue of Bon Appétit. It has a pecan crust, which I was a bit concerned about because the crust is so dark that it is difficult to judge the desired level of prebakedness. The color is the same raw, cooked and, I imagine, overcooked. I had to toast the pecans first, then grind them. As I did not have a food processor yesterday (but I have one today!), I ground them in very tiny batches in my magic bullet. The filling had lemon peel and whole-milk yogurt, which are not usual pumpkin cheesecake ingredients, mixed with the cream cheese, sugar, eggs, pumpkin and seasonings in my stand mixer. Easy. Baked in a water bath. The sauce was a dark brown sugar caramel sauce with bourbon and toasted pecans, poured over the top of the chilled cheesecake. It looked really nice, though I didn't see it this morning after the sauce set. I licked out the saucepan, though, and thought the sauce tasted just fine on its own.

Gentleman Caller took the cheesecake in as his contribution to the office thanksgiving party. I had him swipe a slice for me before the cheesecake was set out, just in case there wasn't any leftover for me to try. Usually I don't mind sending in an already-sampled cheesecake, but this was a fancy lunch and might seem a tad tacky. I'm glad he did save a piece because the cheesecake was gone after the fourth table got to it (out of twelve tables). Three tasters preferred the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake (the reigning champ), though one preferred the gingersnap crust of the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake with a Gingersnap Crust. Another taster preferred this cheesecake for having a perfect texture, good crust and topping and a good presentation. One complained that it was too small. As far as cheesecakes go, I think that is a common complaint.

This is getting difficult to judge. This is one mighty fine cheesecake. I’d eat it with no complaints. But, I think the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake might be better. It remains champ, but with a very close runner-up. Oh, it’s so close. But there can be only one winner. This one has a less soggy crust, which may be due to my improved technique for wrapping the springform pan in foil before submerging it in hot water. Or it could be because of all those lovingly and meticulously ground pecans. It also has a good texture, perhaps because of the addition of whole-milk yogurt. If the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake wins the Snackdown, I might toy with the recipe a bit, trying different crusts, and perhaps adding yogurt. Just to see what happens.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 07:01 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

It has been cold and rainy here for two days, which I find depressive and arrogant. I had the most unpleasant morning. I tried to cheer myself up by going to Wal-Mart. I know lots of people boycott Wal-Mart for very honorable reasons. I'm not so honorable. I love that place. But today it just didn't get my mojo going. So I made another pumpkin cheesecake. This one is for GC's office Thanksgiving party tomorrow. He has been instructed to get feedback and to save a piece for me to try. It's in the oven baking right now and the lovely smell in the house is beginning to cheer me up a bit. But I still hate today.

In other pumpkin cheesecake news, Red Momo has been conducting independent review of the cheesecakes. Here is the report:

So, I took it upon myself to make both the bourbon spiced pumpkin cheesecake and the spicy pumpkin cheesecake. For anyone worried, a few extra minutes (maybe ten at most) is all that they need at this high altitude.

I brought them into the office and both received rave reviews. Seriously, you'd have thought people had won the lottery, so happy were they at the cheesecakes.

Most people preferred the spicy pumpkin cheesecake, as it was essentially a pumpkin pie with cheesecake undertones.

I, however, and Pink Ribeye, both prefer the bourbon spiced pumpkin cheesecake. I used about purteen daughters worth of Jack Daniel's, but it was family well spent. Seriously, it was delicious.

The reason I prefer it is because I wanted cheesecake with pumpkin pie undertones. And the sour cream topping -- with the added JD, it was just fine (though a mouthful of that only would be a little strange). Another aspect was that the BSPC was thicker. Much thicker. And I like a thick slice of cheesecake.
-Red Momo

Red Momo, Purple Fried Okra and the others I've quizzed about the proper taste and texture of a pumpkin cheesecake have convinced me that a cheesecake with pumpkin pie flavor is the goal. So, Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake pushes Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake from the winner's circle. Will it be able to hold the title against the #5 competitor, training in my oven right now? Results tomorrow.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 03:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I have just returned from the housewarming party with the results for the Spiced Pumpkin cheesecake with a Gingersnap Crust: no go. It tastes good, but had a sticky texture that made for a bad showing slicing and serving. The recipe had no topping for the cheesecake, so I borrowed a streusel topping from a pumpkin pie recipe. That's a keeper. The crust was soggy and not overly gingersnappy. Definitely not worth the trouble of grinding up the cookies to make the crust. The filling was good, but not outstanding. So, final verdict: toss the recipe. It was good, but not good enough. We have high standards here at the Ultimate Snackdown. So, it is still neck and neck between the Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake and the Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake. The winner may be determined by a vote. Should a proper pumpkin cheesecake be a creamier pumpkin pie, or a cheesecake with pumpkin flavor? Cast your votes now! There is a definite but subtle distinction here. Of course, there are four more cheesecakes to try.

I made three batches of chocolate chip cookies today for poker night tonight. Results will be posted tomorrow, even though I already know which one (of the three) wins.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 07:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I'm not really sure what that means, but if you need me this weekend, I can be found in my kitchen, baking up storms of chocolate chip cookies and a small tempest of pumpkin cheesecake. Tomorrow afternoon is a housewarming party for one of Gentleman Caller's colleagues. I'll warm his house with a Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust. Gingersnaps! Sounds good. Then, tomorrow night is the inauguration of our new poker basement. I'll be betting with chocolate chip cookies. I'll make those tomorrow. Today I made the cheesecake. It's baking in the oven now. I don't have a food processor, so I tried to make gingersnap crumbs with my blender. There is a "crumb" setting, so I thought I had it made. Not so. Some ground up nicely but most just flew around the top of the blender canister. It took forever because I had to do the cookies in batches and stop between batches to swipe the crumbs out from under the blades. No fun. I'm currently comparison-shopping for a good food processor. This would be an easy recipe if I had a food processor or could buy gingersnap crumbs. This recipe has no topping for the cheesecake. I hope it looks good. Toppings cover up unsightly Evil Dead-esque cracks.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 05:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

I know you sweet readers are eager for the crowning of the Ultimate Pumpkin Cheesecake so you can try it out for your respective Thanksgiving day feasts. I vow to churn out recipes at a rapid pace. Five more to go. I can make it happen. In fact, I just sent cheesecake #3 (Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake) to GC's office, but not before slicing off a hunk to try myself. This cheesecake would have to be extraordinary to warrant the trouble of making it. The recipe is from Cook's Illustrated. I think they usually do a good job of creating good recipes in their test kitchens. This one, however, used so many bowls and dishes that I had to stop midway to wash and dry some before I could carry on. And I have a fairly well stocked kitchen. One particularly questionable step is drying the pumpkin. The recipe calls for a can of pumpkin, which you spread out over a three-thickness paper towel mound and top with another three layers of paper towels to draw out excess moisture. Is this really necessary? The recipe also directs you to cook the cheesecake in a hot water bath. This is to ensure a slow and even cooking, which helps keep the top from cracking and the bottom from burning. It also makes for a soggy crust, which is unfortunate, because the crust had potential. It was similar to the crust from the previous two cheesecakes, except it had spices in it.

So, was the cheesecake worth all the effort? Maybe. It had a nice, light and creamy texture. This one is definitely richer and smoother. GC said it is more like a cheesecake with pumpkin flavor than the current champ, which is more like a creamy pumpkin pie. The topping, though, is excellent. Brown sugar and bourbon cream. Yay for Wild Turkey.

Right now I'm leaning toward Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake (#2) because it is just as tasty, perhaps a bit healthier (less cream cheese, whipping cream and sugar and fewer eggs) and easier to assemble. I'll probably keep the spiced cream topping for a nonalcoholic option, but will filch the brown sugar and bourbon cream topping from the Cook's Illustrated recipe. And, I might try adding some spices to the other crust. I think the Ultimate Snackdown Pumpkin Cheesecake winner will probably be a version cobbled together from all the competitors.

I am, however, awaiting official review from GC's colleagues before making any final decisions.

Update 7:30pm: The tasters have reviewed the cheesecake and given it two thumbs up, an A++++, a "wow!" and "Out of this world!" Guess they liked it. Unfortunately, they didn't get to try the Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake, so have no basis for comparison. But with results like those, I think this cheesecake makes it to the next round.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 12:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

As demanded, here is the recipe for the Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake, which recently knocked out the Bourbonless Pumpkin Cheesecake from the competition. I'm a bit reluctant to post the recipe because it hasn't yet achieved Ultimate Pumpkin Cheesecake status and I don't want to go around giving out sub par recipes. This one does have potential, however, and is quite tasty in a good way, so I won't be embarrassed if it graces Thanksgiving tables. If you should make this recipe, I want feedback. Be brutal. I can take it.

Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake

For crust
¾ cup graham cracker crumbs (from ~five crackers)
½ cup pecans (1-¾ oz), finely chopped
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ stick (¼ cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
For filling
16 oz. cream cheese, softened
¾ c. sugar
2 eggs
16 oz. can pumpkin
2 t. cinnamon
¼ t. ginger
¼ t. cloves
For topping
8 oz. heavy whipping cream
1 T. pumpkin pie spice (+ more to taste, if desired)
1/4 c. Icing sugar (+ more to taste, if desired)

Make crust:
Invert bottom of a 9-inch springform pan (to create flat bottom, which will make it easier to remove cake from pan), then lock on side and butter pan.
Stir together crumbs, pecans, sugars, and butter in a bowl until combined well. Press crumb mixture evenly onto bottom and ½” up side of pan, then chill crust, 1 hour.

For filling:
In large mixing bowl, beat cream cheese, sugar and eggs on medium speed ‘til smooth. Add pumpkin and spices; continue mixing.

Spoon into pie crust and bake 350 until set, ~45m. Cool. Refrigerate several hours.

For topping
Pour whipping cream into a clean bowl. Sift icing sugar and pumpkin pie spice on top of cream (don't need to sift if icing sugar isn't clumpy). Also, you can just use a mixture of 2 parts cinnamon, 1 part each of cloves and ginger instead of premixed pumpkin pie spice. Mix on high speed until soft peaks form. Taste and adjust icing sugar or spices if necessary. Mix until stiff peaks form. Spread on top of pumpkin cheesecake. Refrigerate until ready to use. Let stand ~20m before cutting and serving.

Serves 16.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 01:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

I've been looking for an excuse to make another pumpkin cheesecake and pawn it off on other people. Tonight a friend had a Mexican Halloween dinner party, so I showed up with a Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake. Gentleman Caller said I should call it a flan to fit with the Mexican theme. Better a flan disguised as a cheesecake. Anyway, the cheesecake was so good one guy said it almost made him cry. Was he just being polite? I think I'd be taken aback if someone actually burst into tears over my cooking. I must admit, though, that I wasn't true to the recipe. It called for a store-bought graham cracker crust and Cool Whip topping. That's just too easy for Blue Artichoke, so I borrowed the excellent crust from the Bourbonless Pumpkin Cheesecake and made my own pumpkin-spiced whipped cream topping. Mmm. I followed the recipe for the pumpkin filling. I had my doubts because it was so plain and easy, but GC thought it a good combination of pumpkin pie and cheesecake, which, really, is what a pumpkin cheesecake should be. The Spicy Pumpkin Cheesecake is the leading frontrunner. Cheesecakes are so much harder to give away than cookies.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 11:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Cheesecakes are sly creatures. They make me very nervous. Why do they jiggle so when they are thoroughly cooked? I always panic and leave the cheesecake in the oven until it no longer jiggles, terrified that I'll have a soggy, runny mess if I don't. And I never have a runny mess, because I always overcook cheesecake. So, when I made a pumpkin cheesecake this weekend for a dinner party thrown by Gentleman Caller's colleague, I decided to go against my better judgment and cook the cheesecake for exactly the time prescribed by the recipe. If it didn't work, well, at least it would be spectacularly embarrassing to show up with a partially cooked dessert. But it did work! For once, I finally turned out a cheesecake that wasn't dry, thick and cracked, but moist and cheesecakey.

The cheesecake was officially a Bourbon Pumpkin Cheesecake, but I omitted the bourbon as the hosts have children and I didn't know how they felt about feeding alcohol to their kids. Turns out, they don't mind a bit. I think the bourbon would have rounded out the flavor nicely. There was a sour cream topping to the cheesecake, which was OK, but I think I'll try a new topping next time, or just forget it. The crust, though, was excellent. Walnut and graham crackers, brown sugar and butter. Yum.

Posted by Blue Artichoke at 09:51 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)