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Wandering Gullet: Thanksgiving

Last week, I cooked recipes from a holiday instead of from a country. I’m doing it again this week with the quintessential American holiday: Thanksgiving. It’s my favorite meal of the year, and I’ve never made it myself. And even though Thanksgiving meal responsibility doesn’t fall on me, I still copy all the Thanksgiving menus that cooking magazines start printing about this time every year. I have quite a collection, good for many years of Thanksgivings, but why wait?

My Thanksgiving-in-October menu included the turkey, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce and green beans. Like Thanksgiving dinner in many households, everything didn’t go quite according to plan. The green beans I bought on Monday were moldy by Sunday night. I threw them away, looked around for a good vegetable substitution that could be made in less than 30 minutes, and found some mushrooms. Saved! I roasted a 6-½# turkey breast; this being the first time I’ve roasted a turkey, I didn’t know how long to cook it. My recipe was for a 2# breast, so I knew it would take longer than the recipe indicated. I checked it obsessively every 30-45 minutes for a little over 3 hours, until my meat thermometer told me it was safe to eat. It wasn’t very difficult, but I wasn’t cooking many dishes for a crowd of hungry people, as most people do for Thanksgiving. This was good practice, and I learned that I desperately need to learn how to carve a turkey. I did an OK job, but I suppose it would have been easier and prettier had I removed the bird from the roasting rack to a cutting board before hacking away at it. I’m lazy, though, and didn’t want to dirty another thing that Gentleman Caller would have to wash. I thought I’d be better at carving the turkey, because I’m a super slicer. Seriously, I can cut cakes and slice loaves of bread perfectly. With practice, I’m sure I’ll soon be an expert bird carver too.

Recipes!
I made a Thai-inspired roast turkey, marinated overnight in a saté paste of peanut butter, chili sauce, soy sauce, onion and spices. I’m not including the recipe here because it isn’t worth repeating. The turkey was good, indeed, but didn’t taste much like the saté because most of it slid off the turkey into the roasting pan. Some of the skin (which didn’t crisp at all) tasted a bit like peanut sauce, but the flavor was very mild. All in all, I think the saté marinade is just a waste of ingredients. I’ll be glad to provide the recipe if anyone wants to try it, but it isn’t a Blue Artichoke-endorsed recipe.

Chipotle Bourbon Cranberry Sauce

Recipe from The Girls Who Dish!: Seconds, Anyone?
I couldn’t find cranberries, so I subbed a can of whole berries in jelly. Omitted star anise; just used some adobo sauce (no chipotles). I reduced the apple juice, cinnamon and brown sugar until about ¾ cup, then added the cranberries, bourbon and adobo sauce. Cooled, then added lime juice. Nice sweet and smoky flavor.

1 (12 oz.) pkg cranberries, fresh or frozen
2 c. apple juice or cider
2 cinnamon sticks
4-6 clusters star anise
1 c. dark brown sugar
2-3 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
¼ c. bourbon
2 limes, juice only

In a nonreactive saucepan, combine first 4. If you’re unsure about how sweet the sauce will be, begin with ½ c. sugar and add the rest later to taste. Bring the berries to a boil; reduce heat to med-low. The cranberries will cook completely in 20-30m, bursting and turning the sauce deep red. In the last few minutes of cooking, taste fro sugar and stir in more as desired. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.

To make mincing the chiles easier, cut them on foil or parchment. After scraping the chiles into the pot, discard the paper. For a milder smoky flavor, omit the chipotles and spoon some of the adobo sauce into the cranberries. Add the bourbon and lime juice. The high natural pectin in cranberries keeps the sauce for months in the fridge.

Makes ~ 2c.


Whipped Chipotle Sweet Potatoes
Gourmet, November 2003; originally published November 1995
This recipe is inspired by a dish served at Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill, in New York City. The smoky heat of the chipotle chile and the potato's natural sweetness balance each other beautifully.

I halved the recipe and used 1 chipotle with a bit of adobo sauce. Whooo, boy! Way too spicy-hot; overshadowed the sweet potatoes. Go light on the chipotle, unless you like a burning, tingling mouth that can’t taste anything else on the plate. I made the casserole a day in advance, pulled it out of the fridge when I put the turkey in the oven (to bring to room temperature) and baked it during the last 20 minutes of the turkey’s cooking time.

5 1/2 lb sweet potatoes, scrubbed
1 tablespoon minced chipotle chiles in adobo, mashed to a paste (1 1/2 to 2 chiles)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces and softened
1 teaspoon salt

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with foil and butter a 2-quart shallow glass or ceramic baking dish.
Prick each potato several times with a fork, then bake on baking sheet until very soft, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.
When cool enough to handle, halve potatoes and scoop flesh into a bowl. Beat potatoes, chile paste (to taste), butter, and salt with an electric mixer at medium speed just until smooth, then spread in baking dish.
Bake whipped potatoes until hot, 20 to 25 minutes.
Cooks' note:
Whipped potatoes can be prepared and spread in baking dish (but not baked) 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.


Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic, Parmesan, and Bread Crumbs
Cook’s Illustrated, January/February 2006

I used ~ ¾ cup of Panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs) instead of making my own, and used dried parsley. Pretty easy last-minute addition to the menu.

2 slices high-quality white sandwich bread, torn into quarters
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds white button mushrooms, cleaned, stems trimmed, quartered if medium or halved if small
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Table salt and ground black pepper
1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

1. Pulse bread in food processor until coarsely ground. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until foaming. When foaming subsides, add bread crumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until dark brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer crumbs to small bowl and set aside.
2. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release liquid, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has completely evaporated, about 8 minutes longer. Add remaining butter, reduce heat to medium, and continue to cook, stirring once every minute, until mushrooms are dark brown, about 8 minutes longer.
3. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to medium bowl. Toss hot mushrooms with Parmesan until cheese melts. Toss with bread crumbs and parsley; serve.

Serves 4

Comments

The mushroom dish sounds incredible!

The rest... hmm... what is it about this chipotle fad? It's like merlot from a few years ago... no one had really been drinking it and then *everyone* was drinking it all the time. What gives?

Well, I don't know that it's a fad so much, at least not in the Blue Artichoke household. I bought a can of chipotles in adobo sauce several months ago, used a tiny bit and froze the rest. So, now I'm trying to find ways to use it up. And, as I discovered with the sweet potatoes, adding a bit more than the recipe calls for isn't a very good way to use it up because you end up with a pan full of sweet potatoes that are too hot to taste. Better to just throw out the extra chipotles than waste sweet potatoes too!

As for Merlot, maybe the movie Sideways caused a resurgence of interest?

what is adobo sauce, exactly? i don't think we have that in eastern ky!

i've been on a cooking late at night kick. desperate attempts to use up garden offspring that cannot fit in my overstuffed freezer. warning: you may be getting frozen pesto for christmas. my freezer is jam packed with it. another good use for basil is to throw a big handful in when you make hummus. my new favorite hummus is made with the usual ingredients plus ground flax seed, lots of fresh basil, a little fresh dill and a dash of bragg's liquid aminos (or tamari). i think i put the recipe on my blog a few weeks ago.

do you know if there are any day of the dead cooking traditions? just curious.

Adobo sauce is a Mexican paste/sauce made from ground sesame seeds, chiles, herbs and vinegar. I've never made it myself; it's just mixed in with the canned chipotle peppers I buy. I find the canned chiles in adobo sauce in the Mexican section of the grocery store.

Oh, yeah, please no pesto Christmas present! I have quarts of it taking up all the room in my freezer right now. More pesto, especially eastern KY pesto, would probably form a rival gang. They'd fight for territory in the cramped quarters of the freezer. One day I'd open the door to find green pesto splattered on the freezer walls. Senseless violence.

Actually, there are lots of food traditions associated with the Day of the Dead. The Aztecs believed that the soul lived after death and, forty days after death, returned to earth for one day of remembrance each year. They were seeking nourishment and community, finding their way back home by the scent of their favorite foods. Today, instead of honoring each death 40 days later, they just honor all the deaths on two days each year. Nov. 1 is celebrated by the Little Feast for the Dead (for deceased children) and Nov. 2 is the Great Feast for the Dead (for deceased adults). More on this in a future post...