This isn't so much a place as a celebration of the Jewish New Year (for people, animals and legal contracts) and Day of Judgment. Food is a big part of Rosh Hashanah, so I declare it open game for the Wandering Gullet. The holiday actually started at sundown on Friday and continued on through Saturday, but we celebrated it with dinner last night. Different areas have different customs. One includes serving tongue or other head meat to symbolize the head of the year. Most meals include honey or apples for a sweet new year. I went with the sweet menu, and decided on a leg of lamb instead of head meat. I suppose this could symbolize good travels or work or dancing legs.
I made Hamad, which means sweet and sour, and is an Iraqi dish of braised lamb with beets and tomatoes. I added a turnip, just for fun. I also made a Moroccan carrot salad (carrots also symbolize a sweet new year), a loaf of whole-wheat and cranberry challah and a honey cake. Every dish had a sweet element to it, so I'm sure that if GC, Fat Larry and I were Jewish, we'd have a sweet new year (and so would our legal contracts).
Recipes!
Hamad (Iraqi Braised Lamb with Beets and Tomatoes)
Jewish Cooking in America, Joan Nathan, NY, 2001
Hamad, which means sweet and sour, is often served at Rosh Hashanah. You can add carrots, turnips, zucchini and parsnips to it.
I used a boneless leg of lamb, because it was smaller and cheaper than a shoulder. Trim as much fat as you can from the lamb for a less gamey flavor. I'd probably add more tomatoes, maybe an additional can of diced tomatoes. Also, beets don't seem to be available yet, so I used two cans of beets, drained, and added for the last 20 minutes of cooking. The turnip, I boiled for about 20 minutes, then peeled and diced and added along with the canned beets. I used brown rice and made a ring of rice on the plate, which I filled with the lamb mixture.
3 ½ -4# shoulder of lamb, diced in 1” cubes
28 oz. Can plum tomatoes, drained and diced, juice reserved
S/p
1 clove garlic, mashed
1 t. turmeric
2 t. sugar
2# beets
Juice of ½ lemon
Cooked rice
In heavy saucepan, mix together the lamb with tomatoes, s/p, garlic, turmeric and sugar. Cook on a high flame, stirring, until meat is brown. Then simmer, covered, on top of the stove for ~2 hours, adding more juice from tomatoes if necessary.
Meanwhile, cook the beets in water to cover for 20 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel and dice.
Add beets to stew and simmer, covered, 20 minutes more. Just before serving, add lemon juice and adjust seasonings. Serve with rice.
Serves 8.
Carrot Salad
Jewish Cooking in America, Joan Nathan, NY, 2001
Although Moroccan Jews serve this salad throughout the year, it is particularly popular at Rosh Hashanah when carrots symbolize a sweet New Year. This should be made a day or so in advance.
I made this three days in advance. It's pretty straightforward and easy to make. I forgot to take it out of the fridge until the last minute, so it was cold instead of room temperature. Still good, of course, but would have been a bit less surprising and jarring had it been room temperature.
1# carrots, peeled
½ t. salt, or to taste
1 clove garlic, minced
Juice of 2 lemons
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 t. cumin, or to taste
½ t. paprika
¼ c. veggie oil
½ c. parsley, minced
Place carrots in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, 15-20m or until tender.
Drain and slice in rounds ¼” thick.
Mix garlic, lemon juice, s/p, cumin, paprika and oil; pour over carrots in a bowl. Let sit 1-2 days in fridge before serving, sprinkled with parsley, at room temp.
Serves 4-6.
Heavenly Whole-Wheat Challah
Jewish Cooking in America, Joan Nathan, NY, 2001
I made the dough for the bread 2 days in advance and let it cold rise in the fridge. It probably would have been lighter if I had baked it the next day, instead of letting it rise for two days. Other than the dough being a bit stiff to work with, it turned out fine. I added cranberries and a bit of sugar to the dough after I added the butter and eggs. It makes two big loaves, which is quite a lot for two people. I'm going to freeze one loaf.
1 c. + 1 t. warm water
2 pkg active dry yeast
3-½ c. flour
½ c. sugar
1-½ c. whole-wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
2 t. salt
½ c. butter, room temp
3 large eggs
2 T. poppy or sesame seeds for sprinkling
Dough:
In a large bowl, mix together 1 c. of water, yeast, 1 c. of flour and ¼ c. sugar. Set aside 20-30m. This is the sponge mixture.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, place the sponge mixture and 2 c. of flour, remaining ¼ c. sugar, whole-wheat flour and salt. Mix well at low speed. Gradually add the butter and 2 eggs, 1x1. Adding the remaining ½ c. flour as needed, gradually increase the speed of the mixer and continue mixing ~10m, until dough becomes smooth and elastic.
Place dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl and turn so all sides are coated with oil. Cover with a cloth and let the dough rise 1-2h, until doubled in size. You can also refrigerate the dough and let it rise slowly overnight. Punch it down, remove to a floured board and knead until the air pockets are pushed out.
Braiding and baking the challah:
Divide dough in half. Set aside one half and divide the other into 4 equal portions. Roll each piece with your hands into an even strand ~15” long and place the 4 strands side by side. Pinch the upper ends firmly together to connect them. Beginning from the right and working toward the left, take the outside strand and weave it over the adjacent strand, under the next strand and over the last strand on the left. Proceed in the same over-under fashion, moving downward row by row, always weaving from right to left, until ends are reached. Connect the ends by pinching them together as you did in the beginning and tuck them under the braided loaf. Form the second loaf the same way. Place both on a greased cookie sheet 2” apart.
In small bowl, beat together the remaining egg with 1 t. water. Brush the loaves with the egg wash.
Cover loaves loosely with a towel or plastic wrap and let rise for 1h, or until 2x size.
Preheat oven to 350. Brush the loaves again with egg wash and sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds.
Bake on middle rack for 35-45m, or until golden. The loaves are done if they sound hollow when tapped.
Yield: 2 loaves.
Seasonal Variations:
Knead the following ing into the dough during step 2, after adding the eggs. Owing to the moisture found in some of the ingredients, more flour may be needed.
Thanksgiving and fall: 1 c. frozen cranberries tossed in 2 T. sugar, or 1 c. peeled and diced apples sprinkled with cinnamon sugar
Winter: 1 c. diced dried apricots or golden raisins plumped in hot water for 10m, then drained and dried
February, for Washington’s Birthday: 1 c. frozen whole Bing cherries, coarsely chopped
Spring and summer: 1 c. frozen blueberries or diced fresh peaches.
As an optional glaze for the challah with fruit, melt ¼ c. apricot jam with 1 T. water. Brush the melted jam mixture over baked challah.
Honey Cake
Gourmet September 2003
Honey cake is often served during Rosh Hashanah because honey symbolizes wishes for "sweet" things to come. The cake becomes moister and its flavors deepen a day or two after it's made. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 3 hr (includes cooling).
I also made this cake two days in advance. I used buckwheat honey and Jack Daniels whiskey. The cake was easy to make and easy to eat: sweet, spicy, moist and yummy.
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup honey (preferably buckwheat)
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup freshly brewed strong coffee, cooled
2 large eggs
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons whiskey or bourbon
Special equipment: a 9- by 5- by 3-inch loaf pan
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 350°F. Oil loaf pan well and dust with flour, knocking out excess.
Whisk together flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, baking powder, and ginger in a small bowl. Whisk together honey, oil, and coffee in another bowl until well combined.
Beat together eggs and brown sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed 3 minutes. Reduce speed to low, then add honey mixture and whiskey and mix until blended, about 1 minute. Add flour mixture and mix until just combined. Finish mixing batter with a rubber spatula, scraping bottom of bowl.
Pour batter into loaf pan (batter will be thin) and bake 30 minutes. Cover top loosely with foil and continue to bake until cake begins to pull away from sides of pan and a wooden pick or skewer inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 minutes more. Cool on a rack 1 hour.
Run a knife around side of cake, then invert rack over pan and invert cake onto rack. Turn cake right side up and cool completely.
Cooks' note:
• Cake keeps, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or in an airtight container, at room temperature 1 week.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.